Surf Tastic

Been out of touch with everyopne for ages. Incredibly sorry but I've been in the sticks. National Parks down the East Coast, camping right on the beach and surfing every day. Thursday was incredible. So good that we spent 6 hours in the water with only a reluctant break for lunch. I hurt now. Wednesday was pretty insane too. 6 foot waves (that means a 12 foot face) in stormy conditions (the swell came from a cyclone up north). Apparently the radio gave out warnings of dangerous high seas. So me Tao and Jack toodle off to the rocks and flung ourselves into it. Jack's an instructor so he was catching so class waves. I was morew concerned about survivng as I think Tao was. I got smashed by about three waves in a row and on the third my leggy came off. Panic. In high seas and no more surf board. I managed to get it back and had to paddle in with my head low. At least I'm still alive though. Tao caught one of the monsters and rode it for a bit. Lucky bastard. Anyway, more surfing is required, just as soon as I've had a massage. Ciao peeps.